A very cool moment from 18 years ago.

It was my second season of then traveling to the Hawaiian islands from Australia to photograph the north shore for the magazines that I was shooting for at the time. Back then, those magazines were Australian Surfing Life, Surfaholic, Surfing
and Trip Surf.
It was before the fisheye became a normal lens in the water. A time when a 24mm was considered even to be quite wide for shooting from the water. That 24mm was my main water lens. I had developed a rather unusual but highly successful method of shooting, by drawing on my skills as a bodysurfer, I would bodysurf along the top of the wave at Off The Wall, while at the same time, aiming and holding my camera housing at the surfer, whom I would be shooting at the time. By bodysurfing the wave, I was able to achieve a longer sequence when it counted.
Tom Curren is one of those surfers who just about everyone has some degree of interest in. I watched his career and his style was just so smooth and he would connect his maneouvers flawlessly. For me as a surf photographer, I’d only ever seen him surf in person once or twice, so the opportunity to photograph him at perfect 4-6 foot Off The Wall was a bit of an sudden dream-come true-opportunity, which I seized upon immediately as I spotted him out of the corner of my eye taking off on a pretty decent wave. I was little bit out of range and had to call on all my skills to get into position quickly. This was where the body surf skills came into their own and before you knew it, there I was riding the wave while photographing the then very elusive Tom Curren shacked at Off The Wall. I was so stoked to have been able to shoot that fleeting moment and am happy to share with you here today. Enjoy!

Sean

One Response to “A very cool moment from 18 years ago.”

  1. drina says:

    Wow what a big wave.Love surffing:)

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