Awesome day at the Eddie Aikau big wave surfing invitational

Hi all, wow, what a few days, it has been. I slept over at the Rip Curl Off The Wall house the night before the contest because they said the roads would be closed down and I wanted to be right there, where it was all going down. The rumble of the ocean was just about the loudest, I’ve ever heard it. I was woken a couple of times by waves, hitting the house even. The surf that evening was just about the biggest I’ve ever seen surfed at Waimea. 30 foot close-out sets were coming through quite regularly. real scary looking to be out there, for sure.

On the morning of the Eddie, I had to park a mile away from Waimea even at 5am. All kinds of people walking around in the dark, looking like lost zombies. ha ha First light revealed waves that were a lot less in size than the forecast 25-35 feet. In fact for much of the morning, it struggled to meet the 20 foot minimum size requirement for the event. Come midday though and the big stuff was back on with regular 25 foot sets pretty much till the end of the event. Heaps of surfers were having ago at riding the wave right to the beach, a few of ’em even trying to get barreled on the shore-break, like Bruce Irons so famously did back in 2004. Most folks believed that Kelly Slater had the deal sealed with 2 near perfect 95’s to the beach, but big wave expert Greg Long sneaked in at the last moment and grabbed the title with a perfect 100 point ride. It was an amazing day, much like an outdoor rock festival. Thousands of people everywhere and every time a surfer got a decent ride, the crowd roared like at a football stadium. It was amazing. A day to remember. I’m looking to make a selection of images available as prints, so watch this space in coming days for print offers.

Aloha

Sean

One Response to “Awesome day at the Eddie Aikau big wave surfing invitational”

  1. Shagga says:

    Looks mental Sean give me an email letg get it going on

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