Yesterday’s big wave episode really didn’t pan out to be that great. The swell was coming up all day long but the weather conditions deteriated to about as dark as you can get with regular rain showers and stuff. I started out by checking out Sunset. There were a couple of guys trying to get [...]
He caught this ridiculous barrel just half an hour into his surf.
Wow, it’s been so spectacularly beautiful here on the north shore. Such beautiful glassy conditions with pretty consistent 3-5 foot waves. The amazing thing this year is the complete absence so far of traveling surfers. Just a handful of local surfers at any given spot. This must be about as close to the old days [...]
“I want to see more of my pictures in your hands”..
Anyone who’s watched the north shore over the past 15 or 20 years will tell you thruthfuly, who the best guys are out at Pipe. One guy that will be on everyone’s list is Derek Ho. He always finds the cleanest most beautiful Pipeline barrels and rides them with absolute ease, grace and supreme balance. [...]
We had our first real day of solid swell for the season, 2 days ago. It was easily the best opening day for Pipeline that I’ve seen. relentless swell through out the night moved a great deal of the sand before daylight, although there was still some pretty heavy backwash and wobble happening out in [...]
This is Cru Sarratt revelling in the green glow of a Rocky Point evening surf.
It’s amazing what you can do with the modern day photoshop tools. I learnt the old fashioned way myself, in the dark room, “dodging” and “burning”, wasting sheet after sheet of photographic paper. These days though, it’s a trip what you can do. Imagine it and then go do it. That simple, really. Take this [...]